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  • Writer's picturepete

Lugu Hu

Updated: Apr 26, 2020

Lugu Hu 泸沽湖

From Lijiang, I took a relatively grueling, 9-hour, one-way, two-bus commute up to Lugu Lake 泸沽湖, which sits at 2,690m (8,825ft) and borders Sichuan Province north/northeast. I spent four days here and spent my time either relaxing on shore reading The Old Man and the Sea or renting motorbikes and cruising around the outskirts of the lake. Lugu Hu is home to the Mosu people 摩梭, the last practicing matriarchal society in China. Refreshingly, women rule this land.

After almost all day on the bus, we finally climb the last hill. Just before our descent to the lake, we were able to get out and enjoy the view. This was taken by a fellow passenger.

I hitchhiked around to a northern village called Lige 里格 and used it as my home base. Found a guesthouse under construction and scored a cheap deal.

Outside one of the many restaurants I saw a monkey tied to a tree. I never went to that restaurant because at the time, I usually blindly pointed at something on the menu and ate whatever they gave me. I was scared to order something, then see the chef walk out, grab the monkey and bring it back into the kitchen. God forbid...

Known by the Mosu as pig troughs 猪槽, the canoes are for rent to tour around the lake. Women, for the most part, gave the tours.

Dawn from a hilltop.

I rented a motorbike and began my circumnavigation around the lake.

Only locals allowed to fish. And no engines on the water.

When I first took off, I picked up different local guy and gave him a ride on my moped. As he sat behind me he kept hawking up spit right next to my ear. Literally, right behind me. It was awful, so at one stop I saw this guy walking and told the local to beat it. This guy was a lot of fun to hang out with. Photo taken by a guy who was standing there.

​On the bus back to my next transit station, I saw these small homes scattered about the hills. These hills are massive, and the idea of farming and making a living out here is pretty wild. I simply couldn't believe what it would be like growing up out there on the hillside.

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